We've been back a week now but I am still fondly thinking of our last meal in Paris. It was at a market that sold Italian, Greek, Algerian, and Moroccan prepared foods along with fresh meats & produce. The outdoor seating was pleasant and informal. By far the least expensive meal we've had yet one of the most enjoyable. Will definitely go back next time I'm in the Marais district again.
For the places not closed in Paris due to strikes, Monday schedule, or whim, many were closed due to the public holiday after Easter. The Eiffel tower was mobbed but we were in good spirits for the 3.5 hrs we were there in the morning.
August lost a baby tooth on Saturday thanks to Anand's well-placed yank. She woke up yesterday and found 2 Euros from the tooth fairy and a bunch of candy eggs all over the Paris apt from the Easter Bunny.
I also gave her the marzipan pig she had picked out earlier.
It was missing all extremities a short while later.
Later that day, we went to the Orsay museum and saw the Manet exhibit.
Not allowed to take pictures, so here are some links.
August had this to say about the Manet breakfast-nude: "that's pretty funny because a bug is going to bite her butt." Breakfast-nude
Of the one where a Frenchman is chatting up a lady, August said: He looks like he's thinking "now's-my-chance". She looks like she's thinking, "I'll try but, ummm..." The Garden
Of "Olympia", August said she looked bored. Until then, I hadn't realized Manet was an early feminist of sorts. Olympia
August wanted to show off her missing tooth afterwards.
We capped off Easter Sunday with a visit to the park and a delicious dinner at Glou.
Fewer lawyers in France, so the equipment is scarier=more fun.
Here, the kids play chicken. If both kids hang on, instead of jumping off, they'll smash into one another on the pulley swing. Ouch!
Climbing structure that's pretty darn high.
Merry go round with a contest where the winner gets nothing. French lesson in life. Bonne chance!
Can hardly believe how awesome the new metro subway cars are. Huge windows, here's the view from inside one while above ground.
Buying metro tickets sucks for Americans. No American credit card works on the metro ticket machines due to American companies refusing to invest in cards with the new chip technology. We're pretty much the only large nation in this situation. Btw, if you're in Paris you'll want to buy the Paris Visite metro card with cash - make sure you have enough 20's.
I complained to BofA via email to a district manager, but received a form letter response. They know I can't switch to a competitor over this.
I wasn't a fan of opera before, but I am now. Unfortunately, I think opera suffers from the same weaknesses as plays but even more so in that energy from the singers/actors must carry the performance. You can't rely on anything else to keep the audience's attention. I've seen a lot of plays and one opera with lackluster energy and that just kills it for me.
I was surprised to find that operas are more dramatic than any other story mediums x 10. I love that.
I think the Turandot story is simple, but there are a couple things the audience has to puzzle out. If you give up, Turandot will seem small and short. But if you think about why the kiss changed her heart and why Calaf lies down on the ground at the end after winning her heart, the opera is much more rewarding. I feel it really captures the paradoxical nature of love.
The original post on this topic disappeared, so here's a different take on it.
In act III, Calaf vows to capture Turandot's heart. He has bought himself some time by offering to die (releasing her from having to marry him) if she discovers his name/identity.
In order to learn Calaf's identity, "unrelenting" Turandot tortures the slave girl from Calaf's palace. The slave girl, Liu, has a different plan in mind.
When Liu kills herself out of love for Calaf, the princess is surprised to see such devotion.
Later, Calaf finds Turandot and tells her he is going to kiss her.
When he kisses her, her heart turns towards him. This part doesn't ring true, no kiss can do that. But I think it's just a symbol standing in for attraction and losing control. She does explain that she felt he was different from the start and that scared her.
And also: "in your eyes shone the light of heroes."
She tells him to go, but he doesn't. Instead he tells her his name and identity so that his fate is in her hands.
The "great trial" begins and Turandot declares that she knows his name. The audience is sad to hear this as it means certain death to Calaf. But then she says his name is Love. The ending scene has one last surprise.
A few days ago, at the Modena train station, I asked: Scusi, parla anglaise? The guy at the ticket counter said "no" quite firmly and shook his head. I held up 3 fingers and said, "3 adulti, 1 ragazzi to Bologna". He said something in Italian and pointed to me and then himself. Puzzled, I repeated what I said and he replied, "or you and me" in English. I was still confused so he started inputing the tickets i wanted, but before he would give them to me, he tried once more and the third time I noticed the look he gave me. I just laughed at my own cluelessness, but he seemed pleased that I finally caught on to his hilarious proposition.
Went to the flea market this morning. Picked Vanves and not Clingancourt as I feel the smaller size makes it more friendly. Was similar to how it was 2 years ago but with much less art. A good price with minimal haggling is generally 50% of the first price. I can get that pretty quickly by pulling out 50% of first price in cash to show I'm serious and they have always taken it. Efficiency, tres bien. Today's take: silverware, art, candlestick holders.
Easter Sunday means tomorrow and Monday most everything will be closed up. Planning on heading to the African or Asian restaurants at that time.
Also went to Sacre Couer Basilica today and the neighboring fabric market. Completely jammed up in time for Easter.
We bought the seats all the way in the back, but when we arrived we discovered our reserved seat tix were for center third row, right in front of the stage. No idea why La Scala was so nice to us. Was it because they noticed my Chinese surname and Turandot takes place in China? Or was it because I was clearly flying in from the US to see their show? Anyways, this is all coincidence as this was the only available opera in the dates we could travel.
Video showing what La Scala looks like from where we're seated.
Act I Chinese princess, Turandot, puts no value on love and instead will marry only the man who suceeds through the trial, the 3 riddles. If the suitor tries and fails, he dies. Stranger from a distant land, Prince Calaf sees Turandot and decides to go through the trial. Slave girl, Liu sings about her love for Calaf as he was kind to her, and tries to talk him out of it, but he has his heart set on Turandot and the trial.
Our apt in bologna at Hotel Paradise is comfy and in a central location.
Italians are different from you and I. Not only do they have more stores selling undergarments per capita, they also name their streets after emotions
Italy's towns and cities are very distinct from each other, down to what people wear, the foods they eat, the wine that goes with the food. Based on the number of bookstores next door to lingerie shops, this town is busy reading and seducing, when they aren't eating the best of Italy.
Tortellini in broth is what bologna is famous for.
Actually the saying goes that they are famous for tortellini, the towers, and tetes. Italian chest size average is why Italian clothing tends to fit, but French clothing tends not. And I am not posting pictures for the other two subjects.
Our cab driver today spoke excellent English. I liked how earnest he was. He told us about his 3 week vacation driving through the U.S. before he became a dad.
Socialism means even cab drivers and buskers deserve to enjoy life.
We went to the town of Modena where all the DOP certified balsamic vinegar is made. This vinegar made august a fan of salads and brussels sprouts at the age of four and she has continued to love it since.
Small production of balsamic vinegar using cherry, oak, chestnut, mulberry, ash wood barrels. The barrels on the shelf contain 50 year old vinegar. We tasted the 6, 12, 25 year versions.
The sales pitch Italian style. Passionate but low-pressure.
After purchasing a train ticket, we had to find a machine that punches the ticket before you get on the train. The last conductor took pity on us and didn't fine us the price of the ticket (170 euro) + 30 euros for not following this unspoken rule. Asked two people about this machine, one person speculated to it's location, and we found it eventually. It worked for us, but not for the lady after us.
Took the train from Venice to Bologna today. When we arrived, laundromat 5 blocks away was top priority. Here's a helpful sign in front of a washing machine in a public place.
Pension Guerrato was well appointed and very conveniently located next to the veggie market and a block away from the fish market. The rialto is a block away as well. I messed up here as the fish market is closed Sunday and Monday. But that just means we need to come back.
Any Italian guy will give a girl a once over. But today, I got a once over from an Italian woman! Naturally she was stylish. I was wearing campers, jeans, my leather jacket from Florence and my scarf from Rome.
